The turn of the nineteenth century was the beginning of the romantic period. It was a time when ‘real life’ shifted to fantasy or
escapist values. Many poets, painters, musicians, revolutionary political ideas, and views of the past were heavily influenced during
this period. Emotion and sentiment was also valued a great deal more than the prior century of cold reason.
Women’s identity also took a change during
this time. Women were considered to be more emotional, more demure, than men. Women were beginning to be placed on a moral pedestal, and
were looked upon as the guardians of family and of community virtue, and the educators of the children. In time, this moral elevation of
women would eventually lead some to suggest that women deserved a wider role in public affairs. However, for now, dress reflected the
perception of women as weak and decorative.
By the 1820s the narrow waist became fashionable again, and the corset once more became an essential part of women’s dress. Décolleté,
gigot sleeves, small
waist, and the bell shaped skirt were features of the fashion at this time.
As the skirt increased in size, the number of petticoats was added to create the bell shape. Originally the skirt was supported with many
layers of petticoats made from either linen or cotton.
By the 1830s the
petticoats were now being called crinolines. The word derives from the French words crin (horsehair) and lin (linen). The fabric was a
woven combination of these two materials. Again, the same process of adding more and more layers continued with this fabric and by the
1840s they had added ruffles to help support the desired width.
The numbers of petticoats were from four to six and greater. The combination of petticoats to form the crinoline differed from each user.
They would be combinations of a flannel petticoat, a starched petticoat with starched flounces, muslin and linen petticoats. By this stage
a small bustle pad was added to give lift and stop the petticoats from hanging due to the share weight. The weight on average was over
6 kilograms. As stated earlier, the size of the crinoline was still increasing right up to 1856, which created a cumbersome garment due
its fullness and weight and sometimes very dangerous from the constriction of the petticoats. To wear this during the hot summer months
would have also added to the discomfort.
