This was the first time that the bustle was featured on it’s own. It had previously been used to support the shape of dress from the early
1820s to the time that the crinoline was disappearing in favour of the bustle. Now it’s used to create a long, more sender shape.
This wasn’t the only century that a bustle was used. Previously the bustle had been used at the end of the 18th century to the turn of the
20th century.
Bustles were used at two different periods, during 1869 to 1876 and 1883 to 1889. After researching these dates I have found sight
differences in these dates. This is generally from the fashion plates of the period as fashions came out after the designs from these
plates.
The first period showed the bustle at a gradual slope, which was left over from the crinoline era, now the sides had tapered narrow sides. The bustle was generally made from cotton supported by metal wire. Many bustles also had wires so you could adjust the positioning of the encased wires so that the volume could fit the dress.
In its construction, the most common type was a fabric panel supported by the steel wires. This construction was very simular to the
panniers of the 18th century.
By the 1883 the bustle was undergoing a revival after the brief time of the ‘natural form’ (1876-1883).
With the return of the bustle the shape was also quite different from the prior period as it had a more exaggerated shape as the top of
the bustle was flat leaving the dress to fall from it.
To cut down on the weight of the bustle there were many different variations of the bustle. Some were created simular from the early
bustle with fabric, yet the top of the bustle was flat and padded giving it a fuller figure. Other types were made from wire mesh held
together with cotton tapes.
From the moment of its return it continued to grow and change shape. By the 1884-85 it had reached its maximum shape. The size was so
extreme that the dress took up enough space to accommodate two people and the top of the bustle was “large enough to rest a teacup upon”.
After this it also continued to lose shape, and continued to do so till 1889 where a pad or nothing replaced it.
